Originally Posted by skipford
Captain's Log stardate 1/11/19...
Ok sorry broke out of character with the date. Stardates are hard for me.
Thoughts going through my head:
1. I know the IB concept will work. Have no idea how to properly design it though. 12' wide, about 6.5' deep, and about 14" tall. I have 5 woofers (JBL GX1200) and no amp yet. Do I get Beringer with noisy fan or Crown with seemingly better reviews? How much wattage? Some say I am going to mechanically over excursion my drivers. Worries. Do I put foam fill in the box? Do I have to make a solid bottom to my riser so it's literally a 6 sided box and seal it all with caulk? Will my dimensions be "close enough" to mount 5 woofers and the volume still be considered an infinite baffle?
You could go as inexpensive as a Beringer NX3000D w/DSP. That Modelisn't noisy, but if it did offend there is an easy Fan, inexpensive Mod you can do
2. HTM-10s semi-recessed in-wall. I want to do this. I think they are going to wind up being wider than the clearance between my studs (assuming 16" centers). Can I augment the box design to clear between the studs? Should I just cut studs and re-frame parts of wall. I'm not removing all the sheetrock so this decision is not as trivial as if I were going to gut the room. Do I sacrifice some recess depth to make a MDF "box" to insert into the hole to help for soundproofing the adjacent hallway and making a shelf for the speaker to sit in (with some rubber padding to isolate the speaker cabinet from the structure). I mean the most I'm gaining from cutting into the wall is about 4". Make a box and that cuts that by probably an inch.
If you want true passive insertion, the Boxes would have to be Dual Layered 5/8" MDF. Wall Re-framing will be required do as to insert the completed Enclosures into each respective re-framed opening. The design of which could rum many directions, but really, in this instance it needs to gel with the framing so to provide a rigid mount. Kinda hard at the moment to provide a rough Line Drawing because known parameters are as of yet unknown.
3. How much work do I try to do to the room before I physically have my ordered items. Like seating, speakers. I could start carpentry but I don't have these items yet to check dimensions. I only have the published documentation of these items to go by right now. Not sure who to trust. Or what to trust.
You where so many have trod before.....and it would seem a definitive Project Outline needs to be workedup. Very advisable so as to get each respective task done, leading to the next, w/no back stepping.
4. What projector do I buy? Is a new model around the corner that I am going to miss out on by purchasing now? I know my screen needs to be about 110" (16:9) and I want to go 2.35(2.39):1 (so adjust wider accordingly for screen size) and my projector have motorized lens memory so I can poor boy cinemascope movies with no anamorphic lens. I want the wide aspect ratio to be special, and 16:9 content to be regular. Is a $3k projector patently always inferior to a $5k projector? Stats are hard to believe and I don't know where to go physically compare models let alone entire price brackets. There may be a kick ass $2000 projector for me and this specific implementation that a $5k projector is wasted on and I don't know it. Daunting.
Naw...we/you got this. Your absolutely ideal solution would be a JVC DLA-x790r. Can be had now very close to the price point your hoping for ( 2 for sale in the Classifieds right now!) And it should be acquired while one is available. It has it all. 1900 "JVC" Lumen - 130,000: Native Contrast (...that is better than the NX9
Above all else, make that purchase asap. Your Theater will revolve around the Image you put up.
5. What screen do I buy? I'm definitely on the wagon for an acoustically transparent screen now. Originally I was just going to do a few layers of spandex and really DIY it, but that was all the biggest fad I think in the 1080P era and I definitely want faux K at a minimum, if not native 4k. I feel like a good quality super tight weave AT screen (flat, 2:39:1) is the way to go. But Don't need to spend a gagillion dollars. Also seeing a sample is time consuming.
Absolutely go DIY with a White over Black Spandex "Zero Edge" design. And....with the height limitations that come with 110" diag @ 16:9 (54") a DIY Spandex in 2.35:1 format would have a Frame that would be 54" x 129" (140" diag.) doing both Formats in C.H.I. mode.
With a x790r the larger 2.35:1 screen will still pull 18 foot lambert (17' throw) and in 16:9 mode a full 29 fl ! The latter being absolutely great if and when you ever watch 3D.
I have read so many forums in my many years of belonging to this group that it's funny how many questions I still have today when faced with actually pulling the trigger on decisions rather than still being in a theoretical situation. I think part of that is all of the options available (good thing) and the other is the constant churning of time and planned obsolescence. Continually forcing you to second guess what you thought would be amazing a few months prior.
I guess I'll go make some hot tea...
Well...ruminate over what needs to be prioritized. Obviously, Framing and Wiring head the list, Lighting Scheme is part of the initial Room design and Wiring. All the aforementioned are tied to the Hip with the Equipment choices. Speaker placement behind the AT screen. Screen position and PJ Throw Seating (No#) and placement Acoustic considerations (either Pre-or-Post Construction) Room Color scheme.
Of course what seems daunting to the Noob seems more easily evident to those with multi-project experience. One thing to be aware of / beware of is placing too much emphasis in individual one-off testimonials. People tend to expound on "Their Choice" and that choice might have little bearing on your needs and budget.
Unbiased evaluation and advice is the most fruitful...and haste at the end trying to "catch up" to construction schedules is the biggest buzz kill of all...something always gets compromised or forgotten.