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post #61 of 92 Old 08-08-2014, 02:35 PM
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The surrounds get mounted high on the wall and occasionally in the soffits.


The luxury of a high ceiling is you can get the surrounds high, and angled slightly downwards to fire out and over the seating.
Much like your current in wall surrounds....


It definitely is a lot to take in.
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post #62 of 92 Old 08-09-2014, 06:28 AM
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The soffits, or sections of soffits, could be acoustically transparent. And the surrounds could be up high, and fire through
something as simple as speaker cloth. With the right soffit design, and those angled sections, the surrounds could fire out
and over. This could work for the rotated design, or with the end flip.


It also strikes me you could section the existing closets, making them shallower, and push the rotated room wider.
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post #63 of 92 Old 08-09-2014, 08:58 AM
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Some more thoughts might be to section closet depth, flip the closet door to entry, and the french entry doors, to closet
Now use the upper french door closet to remove the projector from the theater space (assuming height and throw distances work for your
projector) Flip the av rack 180 degrees (and take it's light pollution, heat load, and noise, out of the theater...)


Leave the angled wall sections, and leave the side surrounds high. Soffit a smaller section above the surrounds, for more spot lighting.
Rear surround would be in walls. (I didn't drawn in the sconces, but I would use the fabric walls to relocate them.)
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post #64 of 92 Old 08-10-2014, 08:13 AM
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I like this space. It's challenging but that just makes it more interesting.


Another version:


Sectioned closets and back wall rebuilt, and a little effort put into soffits. The room would be a wider/shallow emphasis, but
I think it could support large side wall button-tuffed panels and shallow columns. The front soffit at a matching height of the
existing rear soffit could be treated for first reflections to the seating row. The upper small soffits beef up the lighting but wouldn't
really eat up much room volume. The AT space at the front of the room visually removes the alcove intrusion. You give up some
visual volume but you calm the room by visually removing speakers from the space.


Another details I like about the single row is the throw distance the speakers have, to the seating, should give you the ability to play reference
levels. I also have to wonder if the upcoming dual 8" SEOS might just be a great budget choice for a front speaker upgrade. Three of these would give
you a perfect sonic match across the front three channels, a preference of mine to using a horizontal center channel. They would also be a little more
directional in their radiating pattern and offer tactile feedback at the seating distance.
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post #65 of 92 Old 08-11-2014, 06:54 PM - Thread Starter
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This front end I wouldn't do exactly like he did but for the purposes of using a front cabinet for subwoofer this is what I was pondering doing. Is it that bad?

http://afterconvert.com/forum/19-ded...on-thread.html
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post #66 of 92 Old 08-12-2014, 06:05 AM
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It's likely fine for the sub woofer, assuming the upper panel doesn't rattle. It's more about washing out contrast
that I'd be concerned about. And that large surface is going to light up and throw light at the seating position.
Sort of a one eighty degree situation with white ceilings.


I expect the Mrs won't be happy about this idea either. But I'll throw it out anyways. If you rebuild a wall, why not
expend the footprint? The HVAC could be hidden by a stage, and snaked over to the side wall.


The entry is a little bit of a stretch, but the entry side wall could be acoustically transparent fabric, with a similar
fabric door.
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post #67 of 92 Old 08-12-2014, 06:08 AM
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Putting speakers inside cabinets is risky. You need to be sure that the cabinet doesn't add its own contribution to the sound. They need to be built solid to avoid squeaks and resonances , the speaker face should be flush with the front opening, all remaining space around the speaker and cabinet should be filled with sound absorbing material.
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post #68 of 92 Old 05-20-2015, 06:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Hello again everyone,

It's been a while since I've been able to progress with my project. Life is hard.

None the less I am contemplating my next steps. Since my last posts I have resolved that I am going to keep the room oriented in its current position, with the double doors being behind the seating and the screen on the opposite wall.

The question I have now is about acoustical treatments. Without having my room computer modeled or spending money on professional analysis, what would be good advice for basic acoustic treatment? I know that at the first reflective point of the mains you want to diffuse the sound (maybe?). I know bass traps are sometimes in order. This room already has carpet on the floor. What do I need to provide.

As a visual mask to whatever treatment I intend on using either tufted panels such as shown in my inspiration photos at the beginning of this thread, or some continuous curtains along the side and back walls with an acoustically transparent fabric.

Please give input.

Thanks!
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post #69 of 92 Old 06-24-2017, 12:35 PM - Thread Starter
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I am getting closer to continuing with this project. Right now my dilemma is whether to take the existing construction and only add acoustical treatment OR add additional layer of sheetrock (with green glue or similar) on top of the existing layer to help with containment of sound within the room before proceeding with the acoustic treatments. I have two kids across the hall that I would like to let sleep if the wife and I want to watch a late night movie.
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post #70 of 92 Old 06-28-2017, 10:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post
I would recommend a second subwoofer, to help with room nodes.




"You'll save a lot of money that can apply to upping your "Decor Ante"."


Yes you will. But do you REALLY need those three audio compromised rear seats?
And do you really need that riser (and if so, why not extend it to the side wall to create
a full range bass absorber out of it, while you're at it)? Great design always starts with the"wants
versus needs" seating argument. If you don't need seven seats, why spend budget on seven seats?


I'd also be taking the room to a very dark state, and let the lighting be the WOW factor. Work in some texture
to keep the room from being overly bland, and the maxed out video and audio be the secondary WOW factors.


I think what Nylor is doing with his demo room is cutting edge small room. And that baffle walled JTR T8
room on his blog is pretty close to cutting edge smaller budget room. I'd be thinking a single row four seat version of the middle
theater, with a darker side walls would be impressive enough in it's own rights, with some beefed up zoned lighting. The pair of front wall
sconces could be moved to the side walls, via some armoured cable beneath fabric panels.

I am really beginning to agree with this issue about turning the room 90 degrees. I LOVE the current symmetry of the room, but from a seating arrangement perspective, it is not a good layout. I have decided that killing adjacent closets and relocating where the door goes just doesn't work logistically and would lead to some dead space that I would rather avoid.

As I come around to the concept of turning the theater, some existing features concern me with doing this: what about the power for the sconces. Do I just abandon it? Also do I keep a double door opening and just change the doors to solid core, or do I re-frame and make it a single door. By the time I go to that effort I probably could just take out that adjacent closet and put a doorway into the theater from that back wall of the closet, then frame in the double doors and make it an alcove in the kids playroom and it would be a solid back wall of the theater. Then I could keep my symmetry. I don't like the restricted egress. A room with one door and no windows on a second story. If there were a problem, it would be a potential bottleneck for emergency egress, even though it would still be code compliant.

And along with this fundamental layout decision, can I get any input about whether one row or two rows works?

Of course I would want to maximize seating if it were not compromising the experience. I would say minimum seating capacity would be 4, but seating 6 minimum would be nice.


Any thoughts on all this turmoil in my head?

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post #71 of 92 Old 06-29-2017, 08:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Is this what you think is the better arrangement? I have come around to understanding. What do you think?
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post #72 of 92 Old 07-02-2017, 08:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Below is my preliminary budget I've penciled in:

Item Budget Cost Details

Drywall/Carpet/Paint $2,000.00 Green glue 2nd layer of drywall; tape and bed; replace carpet at platform
Solid Core Doors $600.00 Replace Glass Doors
HVAC Circulation Fan $500.00 ILO Ceiling Fan
AT Screen & False Wall $200.00 Spandex & Velvet
Wall Upholstry $200.00 To cover Dow 703 Insulation
Elusive 1099 (x3) $1,350.00 LCR
HTM 10 Surrounds (x2) $620.00 Atmos 2
Subwoofer (x2) $1,000.00 Stonehenge
Blu-ray player $550.00 Oppo UDP-203
Receiver $1,000.00 Dolby Atmos w/ amp for 3.2
Subwoofer Amplifier $350.00 BEHRINGER iNUKE NU6000
Projector $2,700.00 HC 5040UB
8 Seats $4,800.00


Total $15,870.00
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post #73 of 92 Old 07-02-2017, 08:32 PM - Thread Starter
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These are some updated renderings with a bit more detail for effect.
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post #74 of 92 Old 01-02-2019, 08:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Bit of an update:

At the request of the wife, the primary goal is to sit as many in the room as possible. As such I've designed the room to fit 8. The depicted seats in the attached image show the footprint that an Octane Dream seat would consume fully reclined.

While this is tight we feel it's necessary to achieve having friends over to enjoy a movie with us, or anybody beyond our family of four.

In order to gain view distance I have given up on the hope of acoustically transparent screen. Maybe one day

I plan on putting the back row on a 14" riser. Due to the severe lack of space in the room I am considering some form of riser design that would incorporate a chamber for at least two sub-woofers, as placing them up front would encroach too much at this point. I am not building a room in a room or adding any additional soundproofing to this room. I will be adding acoustic wall panels (Owens Corning 703).

I intend on progressing with this build in the coming months (finally) after years of waiting.
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post #75 of 92 Old 01-03-2019, 10:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skipford View Post
Bit of an update:



At the request of the wife, the primary goal is to sit as many in the room as possible. As such I've designed the room to fit 8. The depicted seats in the attached image show the footprint that an Octane Dream seat would consume fully reclined.



While this is tight we feel it's necessary to achieve having friends over to enjoy a movie with us, or anybody beyond our family of four.



In order to gain view distance I have given up on the hope of acoustically transparent screen. Maybe one day



I plan on putting the back row on a 14" riser. Due to the severe lack of space in the room I am considering some form of riser design that would incorporate a chamber for at least two sub-woofers, as placing them up front would encroach too much at this point. I am not building a room in a room or adding any additional soundproofing to this room. I will be adding acoustic wall panels (Owens Corning 703).



I intend on progressing with this build in the coming months (finally) after years of waiting.
So now you have the room thread and the sub thread, but as noted with the addition of the second row of seating you've really painted yourself in a corner.

If go back to a single row a couple feet of the West Wall and bean bags in front of that. If you have guests over give them the good chairs. That way, with the screen and speaks on the East wall you can easily do some form of Marty sub or whatever as you now have the room to do so. A pair of 18" drivers there are easily doable.

It would be tricky to get in a 15" driver in the riser, neigh impossible to get an 18" in the riser, so you are practically speaking talking about a couple of 12s which probably won't give you the wow factor you are looking for.

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post #76 of 92 Old 01-06-2019, 11:02 AM
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The second row of recliners is not going to work well, especially under the sloped ceiling. Why not go with compact folding seats (commercial theatre style) for the second row.
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post #77 of 92 Old 01-07-2019, 06:49 PM - Thread Starter
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I think after the naysayers I am just going to use this thread as a diary of what occurs. Everyone wins. The naysayers can tell me later that they told me so, and everyone else can learn from all of my folly to come.

So since last post I have ordered the seats, 8 in all for $6,100. I've purchased 4 JBL GX1200s for $30 each ($120 total). And purchased a Denon X2500H for $430.

More to come!
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post #78 of 92 Old 01-08-2019, 03:28 PM
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What Is your HVAC plan for this space? I could imagine that with 8 people plus electronics it could warm up and get stuffy pretty quick. Plans looks good! It will be cozy.


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post #79 of 92 Old 01-09-2019, 09:08 AM
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I will be very interested to see the IB riser take shape. Are you going to do anything up front for subs? The PA460 has a mounting depth of just under 8". You could possibly redesign the VBSS into a wide and shallow sub that wouldn't take up much more depth than your speakers. Just a thought.

And...pics or it didn't happen. Just sayin.

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post #80 of 92 Old 01-10-2019, 07:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Quick update:

I have ordered tonight from diysoundgroup:

HTM-10 x 3
Volt-10 Version 2 x 4
Flat packs for all
Speaker posts for all

Subtotal $1,753.57
Shipping & Handling $49.20
Grand Total $1,802.77

FUNNY STORY:

When I ordered the 4 woofers from Best Buy, they limit you to 3 per purchase (online order). So I ordered 3 and went back and immediately ordered 1 more. I got the shipment of 3 in one box, but the second shipment came in a factory box that says JBL GX1200 but there were two woofers in the box. So now I have 5 woofers.
Also the secret "trusted brand" receiver has been delivered:

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post #81 of 92 Old 01-11-2019, 12:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Captain's Log stardate 1/11/19...

Ok sorry broke out of character with the date. Stardates are hard for me.

Thoughts going through my head:

1. I know the IB concept will work. Have no idea how to properly design it though. 12' wide, about 6.5' deep, and about 14" tall. I have 5 woofers (JBL GX1200) and no amp yet. Do I get Beringer with noisy fan or Crown with seemingly better reviews? How much wattage? Some say I am going to mechanically over excursion my drivers. Worries. Do I put foam fill in the box? Do I have to make a solid bottom to my riser so it's literally a 6 sided box and seal it all with caulk? Will my dimensions be "close enough" to mount 5 woofers and the volume still be considered an infinite baffle?

2. HTM-10s semi-recessed in-wall. I want to do this. I think they are going to wind up being wider than the clearance between my studs (assuming 16" centers). Can I augment the box design to clear between the studs? Should I just cut studs and re-frame parts of wall. I'm not removing all the sheetrock so this decision is not as trivial as if I were going to gut the room. Do I sacrifice some recess depth to make a MDF "box" to insert into the hole to help for soundproofing the adjacent hallway and making a shelf for the speaker to sit in (with some rubber padding to isolate the speaker cabinet from the structure). I mean the most I'm gaining from cutting into the wall is about 4". Make a box and that cuts that by probably an inch.

3. How much work do I try to do to the room before I physically have my ordered items. Like seating, speakers. I could start carpentry but I don't have these items yet to check dimensions. I only have the published documentation of these items to go by right now. Not sure who to trust. Or what to trust.

4. What projector do I buy? Is a new model around the corner that I am going to miss out on by purchasing now? I know my screen needs to be about 110" (16:9) and I want to go 2.35(2.39):1 (so adjust wider accordingly for screen size) and my projector have motorized lens memory so I can poor boy cinemascope movies with no anamorphic lens. I want the wide aspect ratio to be special, and 16:9 content to be regular. Is a $3k projector patently always inferior to a $5k projector? Stats are hard to believe and I don't know where to go physically compare models let alone entire price brackets. There may be a kick ass $2000 projector for me and this specific implementation that a $5k projector is wasted on and I don't know it. Daunting.

5. What screen do I buy? I'm definitely on the wagon for an acoustically transparent screen now. Originally I was just going to do a few layers of spandex and really DIY it, but that was all the biggest fad I think in the 1080P era and I definitely want faux K at a minimum, if not native 4k. I feel like a good quality super tight weave AT screen (flat, 2:39:1) is the way to go. But Don't need to spend a gagillion dollars. Also seeing a sample is time consuming.

I have read so many forums in my many years of belonging to this group that it's funny how many questions I still have today when faced with actually pulling the trigger on decisions rather than still being in a theoretical situation. I think part of that is all of the options available (good thing) and the other is the constant churning of time and planned obsolescence. Continually forcing you to second guess what you thought would be amazing a few months prior.

I guess I'll go make some hot tea...
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post #82 of 92 Old 01-11-2019, 01:16 PM
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Have you looked at making your riser a ported enclosure? My quick sim in Unibox based on likely inaccurate specs, make it look like a ported enclosure the size of your riser would perform better than a sealed/IB. 100w and a high pass at around 20hz might yield pretty good results. Trick might be where to place them in the box to as to avoid room modes. Dunno.

Check out Seymore for DIY screen material. I haven't used it, but others say it's good. I bought my last screen material from Carl's Place. I was happy with it. Another option would be to paint a screen on your wall. Mississippi Man on this forum is the painted screen guru.
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post #83 of 92 Old 01-11-2019, 09:49 PM
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How you gonna wire 5 drivers together? 4, stick to 4 then you can go series and parallel -- the other is a 5th wheel... so to speak.

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post #84 of 92 Old 01-11-2019, 11:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kennyandersen View Post
How you gonna wire 5 drivers together? 4, stick to 4 then you can go series and parallel -- the other is a 5th wheel... so to speak.

Behringer

Getting 5 doesn't mean using Five.


And since the GX1200's are 4 Ohm drivers...2 drivers each in Parallel, then each Pair Series-ed to the other is the best, strongest Circuit if all will be driven from one Amp-ed Channel.


Otherwise, a 2-Channel Amp with 2 Ohm drive capability driving into each individual Pair....even better.
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post #85 of 92 Old 01-12-2019, 12:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skipford View Post
Captain's Log stardate 1/11/19...

Ok sorry broke out of character with the date. Stardates are hard for me.

Thoughts going through my head:

1. I know the IB concept will work. Have no idea how to properly design it though. 12' wide, about 6.5' deep, and about 14" tall. I have 5 woofers (JBL GX1200) and no amp yet. Do I get Beringer with noisy fan or Crown with seemingly better reviews? How much wattage? Some say I am going to mechanically over excursion my drivers. Worries. Do I put foam fill in the box? Do I have to make a solid bottom to my riser so it's literally a 6 sided box and seal it all with caulk? Will my dimensions be "close enough" to mount 5 woofers and the volume still be considered an infinite baffle?

You could go as inexpensive as a Beringer NX3000D w/DSP. That Modelisn't noisy, but if it did offend there is an easy Fan, inexpensive Mod you can do


Quote:
2. HTM-10s semi-recessed in-wall. I want to do this. I think they are going to wind up being wider than the clearance between my studs (assuming 16" centers). Can I augment the box design to clear between the studs? Should I just cut studs and re-frame parts of wall. I'm not removing all the sheetrock so this decision is not as trivial as if I were going to gut the room. Do I sacrifice some recess depth to make a MDF "box" to insert into the hole to help for soundproofing the adjacent hallway and making a shelf for the speaker to sit in (with some rubber padding to isolate the speaker cabinet from the structure). I mean the most I'm gaining from cutting into the wall is about 4". Make a box and that cuts that by probably an inch.

If you want true passive insertion, the Boxes would have to be Dual Layered 5/8" MDF. Wall Re-framing will be required do as to insert the completed Enclosures into each respective re-framed opening. The design of which could rum many directions, but really, in this instance it needs to gel with the framing so to provide a rigid mount. Kinda hard at the moment to provide a rough Line Drawing because known parameters are as of yet unknown.


Quote:
3. How much work do I try to do to the room before I physically have my ordered items. Like seating, speakers. I could start carpentry but I don't have these items yet to check dimensions. I only have the published documentation of these items to go by right now. Not sure who to trust. Or what to trust.

You where so many have trod before.....and it would seem a definitive Project Outline needs to be workedup. Very advisable so as to get each respective task done, leading to the next, w/no back stepping.


Quote:
4. What projector do I buy? Is a new model around the corner that I am going to miss out on by purchasing now? I know my screen needs to be about 110" (16:9) and I want to go 2.35(2.39):1 (so adjust wider accordingly for screen size) and my projector have motorized lens memory so I can poor boy cinemascope movies with no anamorphic lens. I want the wide aspect ratio to be special, and 16:9 content to be regular. Is a $3k projector patently always inferior to a $5k projector? Stats are hard to believe and I don't know where to go physically compare models let alone entire price brackets. There may be a kick ass $2000 projector for me and this specific implementation that a $5k projector is wasted on and I don't know it. Daunting.

Naw...we/you got this. Your absolutely ideal solution would be a JVC DLA-x790r. Can be had now very close to the price point your hoping for ( 2 for sale in the Classifieds right now!) And it should be acquired while one is available. It has it all. 1900 "JVC" Lumen - 130,000: Native Contrast (...that is better than the NX9 )
Above all else, make that purchase asap. Your Theater will revolve around the Image you put up.


Quote:
5. What screen do I buy? I'm definitely on the wagon for an acoustically transparent screen now. Originally I was just going to do a few layers of spandex and really DIY it, but that was all the biggest fad I think in the 1080P era and I definitely want faux K at a minimum, if not native 4k. I feel like a good quality super tight weave AT screen (flat, 2:39:1) is the way to go. But Don't need to spend a gagillion dollars. Also seeing a sample is time consuming.

Absolutely go DIY with a White over Black Spandex "Zero Edge" design. And....with the height limitations that come with 110" diag @ 16:9 (54") a DIY Spandex in 2.35:1 format would have a Frame that would be 54" x 129" (140" diag.) doing both Formats in C.H.I. mode.


With a x790r the larger 2.35:1 screen will still pull 18 foot lambert (17' throw) and in 16:9 mode a full 29 fl ! The latter being absolutely great if and when you ever watch 3D.


Quote:
I have read so many forums in my many years of belonging to this group that it's funny how many questions I still have today when faced with actually pulling the trigger on decisions rather than still being in a theoretical situation. I think part of that is all of the options available (good thing) and the other is the constant churning of time and planned obsolescence. Continually forcing you to second guess what you thought would be amazing a few months prior.

I guess I'll go make some hot tea...

Well...ruminate over what needs to be prioritized. Obviously, Framing and Wiring head the list, Lighting Scheme is part of the initial Room design and Wiring. All the aforementioned are tied to the Hip with the Equipment choices. Speaker placement behind the AT screen. Screen position and PJ Throw Seating (No#) and placement Acoustic considerations (either Pre-or-Post Construction) Room Color scheme.


Of course what seems daunting to the Noob seems more easily evident to those with multi-project experience. One thing to be aware of / beware of is placing too much emphasis in individual one-off testimonials. People tend to expound on "Their Choice" and that choice might have little bearing on your needs and budget.


Unbiased evaluation and advice is the most fruitful...and haste at the end trying to "catch up" to construction schedules is the biggest buzz kill of all...something always gets compromised or forgotten.

"They said it couldn't be done. Well, we sure showed 'em otherwise!"
HAS Advanced Audio and Imaging Solutions...Audio Transducers & Projection Screen Coatings
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post #86 of 92 Old 01-12-2019, 06:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Oklahomie View Post
What Is your HVAC plan for this space? I could imagine that with 8 people plus electronics it could warm up and get stuffy pretty quick. Plans looks good! It will be cozy.


Aaron H.

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Hi Aaron,

I am planning for now to retain the existing HVAC in the room, which have two regular sized supply ducts and about two years ago I added a 10x15 or thereabouts return duct in the closet that ties to the return duct back to the HVAC unit in the attic.

After reading other people's ruminations in calculations and ultimate "sticking with what they had in the first place" I am going to leave the HVAC be for now. Attic access at this location is pretty good and if I need to go back and add a new unit or a sound baffle or something I can retro fit that after we are using the theater and determine if there are any deficiencies. I live in Texas and the weather can swing from pretty cold to face melting hot.
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post #87 of 92 Old 01-12-2019, 06:15 AM - Thread Starter
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How you gonna wire 5 drivers together? 4, stick to 4 then you can go series and parallel -- the other is a 5th wheel... so to speak.

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I don't know. Hence my rambling about it in my Captain's Log. Right now I am really deep into projector research. It is daunting. I am going to go explore the DLA-x790r per Mississippi Man's advice.

Regarding the woofers. I'm sure that I can drive 5 somehow, even if it requires multiple amplifiers. I'm not so budget tight that I can't do it. But I don't want to be wasteful either.
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post #88 of 92 Old 01-12-2019, 07:15 AM
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I don't know. Hence my rambling about it in my Captain's Log. Right now I am really deep into projector research. It is daunting. I am going to go explore the DLA-x790r per Mississippi Man's advice.

Regarding the woofers. I'm sure that I can drive 5 somehow, even if it requires multiple amplifiers. I'm not so budget tight that I can't do it. But I don't want to be wasteful either.
Don't get hung up on the fact that since you hornswoggled someone out of a woofer now you must to use it. You got a physics problem, on top of the ethics problem you may not yet have recognized.

At 4 ohm you could wire two of them in series for a 2 ohm load and thus run 4 of them with a nx3000. You could wire (2) pair of them in series for an 8 ohm load and run them with whatever, but the 5th one will require it's own amp either way. You be but a whole amp for one very moderately priced woofer.

If you recognized a clerk in a store accidently tried to short change you, you'd correct then instantly, but if they make a mistake in your favor it's free money?

Reminds me of the guy this Christmas that accidently received 48 diamond bracelets http://newstakers.com/2019/01/06/man-accidentally-receives-48-diamond-bracelets-in-the-mail-jewelry_unlimited/.

If you notify the vendor, and they say you can keep it, then you have 5 woofers and can use the 5th one as a spare. It's the right thing to do.
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post #89 of 92 Old 01-12-2019, 03:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Today I mocked up a screen size.

We sampled footage at 2.35:1 as well as 16:9. I feel that at the closest view distance a 100" screen for 16:9 is good. I waiver between 100" and 110". The wife prefers 100" and I am inclined to agree. Coupled with the fact that the screen will be about 5" closer than the current wall to account for semi recessed HTM-10s in the wall. This would calculate to a 127" screen for 2.40:1. I am going to try again later at the 110" size for 16:9. The wall makes us nauseous easily with the dark color and textured wall. Or maybe all these sizes are just too large?




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post #90 of 92 Old 01-14-2019, 10:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Naw...we/you got this. Your absolutely ideal solution would be a JVC DLA-x790r. Can be had now very close to the price point your hoping for ( 2 for sale in the Classifieds right now!) And it should be acquired while one is available. It has it all. 1900 "JVC" Lumen - 130,000: Native Contrast (...that is better than the NX9 )
Above all else, make that purchase asap. Your Theater will revolve around the Image you put up.

Thank you for the tip. I ordered the JVC DLA-x790r this morning. Well had to get the 540k, but it was the last one!
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