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post #1 of 14 Old 01-12-2019, 03:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Volt 10 plastic terminal parts

Can someone tell me what these plastic terminal points are for?

http://imgur.com/a/TF3V9Vh

I can’t find them anywhere in the build diagram or on any picture of builds. Are these standoffs to mount the board to the box?

If so what screws do I use? they all seem too long and will go through the box.
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post #2 of 14 Old 01-12-2019, 03:29 PM
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The black piece is a wire terminal, it gets soldered to the PCB. The white pieces are standoffs and there were very small screws included with my Volt-6 kits to use with those to mount the PCB inside the cabinet.

ETA: The wire terminals are the same as pictured here (mine were green)

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post #3 of 14 Old 01-12-2019, 04:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smcmillan2 View Post
The black piece is a wire terminal, it gets soldered to the PCB. The white pieces are standoffs and there were very small screws included with my Volt-6 kits to use with those to mount the PCB inside the cabinet.

ETA: The wire terminals are the same as pictured here (mine were green)

Perfect! Thanks!

Do you know what I can use to hang this thing directly on the wall with? Would one of those picture frame brackets work?

Something like this?

http://www.target.com/p/arrow-small...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
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post #4 of 14 Old 01-12-2019, 04:15 PM
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Yes the small plastic ones are standoffs, normally the kits should come with #4 x 5/8" screws for those which give enough to bit into the cabinet but not so long as to poke through 1/2" material. I make sure any assembled crossovers come with a small bag with the standoffs and screws in it taped somewhere onto the crossover.
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post #5 of 14 Old 01-12-2019, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kur1j View Post
Perfect! Thanks!

Do you know what I can use to hang this thing directly on the wall with? Would one of those picture frame brackets work?

Something like this?

http://www.target.com/p/arrow-small...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
You wouldn't want to use something like that as it gives you no way to lock the PCB into position. As Matt mentioned, check all the nooks and crannies, the standoffs and screws are likely squirreled away somewhere in the kit.

Also, on my HTM-10 builds I cut a stick pen into 1" lengths and used 1-1/4" drywall screws through them to fasten the PCBs. Worked a treat.
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post #6 of 14 Old 01-12-2019, 06:24 PM
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I used a hot glue gun to mount my crossovers. Not sure it was the best idea but it did work and was easy.
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post #7 of 14 Old 01-12-2019, 06:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kur1j View Post
Perfect! Thanks!

Do you know what I can use to hang this thing directly on the wall with? Would one of those picture frame brackets work?

Something like this?

http://www.target.com/p/arrow-small...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
You wouldn't want to use something like that as it gives you no way to lock the PCB into position. As Matt mentioned, check all the nooks and crannies, the standoffs and screws are likely squirreled away somewhere in the kit.

Also, on my HTM-10 builds I cut a stick pen into 1" lengths and used 1-1/4" drywall screws through them to fasten the PCBs. Worked a treat.
I have the standoff and found the screws. I was liking that to figure out how to mount the speaker on the wall once I finish it.

Besides Duratex and Rustoleum Restore is there something else I can paint this thing with?
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post #8 of 14 Old 01-12-2019, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kur1j View Post
I have the standoff and found the screws. I was liking that to figure out how to mount the speaker on the wall once I finish it.
Ahh, OK. My Volt-6 are pretty heavy, imagine the 10s are much more so. I would look at french cleats instead as those hangers you linked are not rated for much weight.

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Besides Duratex and Rustoleum Restore is there something else I can paint this thing with?
Pretty much anything you can think of. Or laminate, or veneer.
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post #9 of 14 Old 01-12-2019, 08:31 PM - Thread Starter
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http://afterconvert.com/forum/155-d...1530772?page=1

Anyone know how he countersunk the terminal cup?
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post #10 of 14 Old 01-12-2019, 08:56 PM
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Likely with a router and some type of pattern bit with a jig. Although @dtsdig has a much more capable shop than I, so he may have some other trick up his sleeve.
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post #11 of 14 Old 01-12-2019, 09:47 PM
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If you have a circle jig that goes pretty small (Jasper 200, 240 or 400) that would make the recess, then just use a hole saw for the center cutout.
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post #12 of 14 Old 01-12-2019, 10:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kur1j View Post
http://afterconvert.com/forum/155-d...1530772?page=1

Anyone know how he countersunk the terminal cup?
I just used my Jasper jig for the recess and then adjusted it for the through-hole. Exactly the same process as recessing a woofer, just on a smaller scale.
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post #13 of 14 Old 01-12-2019, 11:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtsdig View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by kur1j View Post
http://afterconvert.com/forum/155-d...1530772?page=1

Anyone know how he countersunk the terminal cup?
I just used my Jasper jig for the recess and then adjusted it for the through-hole. Exactly the same process as recessing a woofer, just on a smaller scale.
Ah, perfect! Thanks.

Do you feel it’s necessary?
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post #14 of 14 Old 01-13-2019, 07:26 AM
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Ah, perfect! Thanks.

Do you feel it’s necessary?
It’s just aesthetics, totally up to you.
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